One of the things this blog hopes to articulate is the incredible diversity possible in viticulture and oenology. Whatever the role of large beverage corporations (a subject of tremendous controversy amongst wine folk), they do not seem to be a positive force for this sort of diversity.
Now, let's be clear: large companies are very good at a range of things. All of these, however, are undertaken in the service of corporate profits. Knowing this can be quite freeing: eyes wide open, when it comes to wine.
Let me give you an example of how this might effect the way we think about their role in wine. Large beverage corporations will always be interested in widening their consumer market. They will not be interested in the inherent quality of their product, except as it relates to their ability to market their product. No one at Pepsi would care a whit if the quality of their beverage were to fall, if it helped the company reach a larger consumer base - and in so doing, increase profits. should the market prove insensitive to inherent quality, then that should not be a corporate goal. That goal is profits, and in the marketing of a product in pursuit of profits.
This is how it should be. Don't look to beverage conglomerates for great, distinctive, special wines. You likely will not find them. Oh, occasionally the sort of Phelps Insignia argument is made, but those wines exist for brand prestige purposes, not the artisanal pursuit of excellence. Get over it.
Friday, September 28, 2007
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