Friday, September 28, 2007

Warm Weather and Varietal Selection

One of the things this blog hopes to articulate is the incredible diversity possible in viticulture and oenology. Whatever the role of large beverage corporations (a subject of tremendous controversy amongst wine folk), they do not seem to be a positive force for this sort of diversity.

Now, let's be clear: large companies are very good at a range of things. All of these, however, are undertaken in the service of corporate profits. Knowing this can be quite freeing: eyes wide open, when it comes to wine.

Let me give you an example of how this might effect the way we think about their role in wine. Large beverage corporations will always be interested in widening their consumer market. They will not be interested in the inherent quality of their product, except as it relates to their ability to market their product. No one at Pepsi would care a whit if the quality of their beverage were to fall, if it helped the company reach a larger consumer base - and in so doing, increase profits. should the market prove insensitive to inherent quality, then that should not be a corporate goal. That goal is profits, and in the marketing of a product in pursuit of profits.

This is how it should be. Don't look to beverage conglomerates for great, distinctive, special wines. You likely will not find them. Oh, occasionally the sort of Phelps Insignia argument is made, but those wines exist for brand prestige purposes, not the artisanal pursuit of excellence. Get over it.

Monday, September 24, 2007

An Open Letter

This is a rejoinder to Dan berger's recent article, wonderfully entitled The Cola Generation , found at http://wine.appellationamerica.com/wine-review/469/Cola-Generation-Wine.html

Dan,
Let me say that much of this, as you point out, has been happening for many years. Many (even one of your readers) says that the market should speak - and indeed it has, and continues to do so.

It cannot be seriously contended that the American palate is not oriented to the sweeter side of the spectrum. It patently is. But wine is only a small part of the culinary world - why should wine escape this wider trend?

And the flavors are the point here; alcohol is I believe a secondary (if malign) feature of this kind of winemaking. Your critic's point, namely that you are elitist in asking for individuality, a sense of place, and balance (even finesse), is surely wrong. I certainly think that asking relatively expensive wines to be redolent of place is well within the bounds of reason. As a consumer of these wines, I would insist on it, especially at the higher price points. These traits, with ageability and complexity, are part of what I'm paying for. Perhaps at lower price levels one could simply accept power, or concentrated fruit flavors. everyone likes a nice BBQ wine, and some would say that that's why God made Zin. But we live in California, where prices for such simple creatures often approach silliness.

I also disagree with the notion that you (and by extension Dunn and Corti, and presumably anyone who agrees with you on this point) are elitist. This doesn't pass a test of basic logic. Indeed, you are the opposite, in that instead of following the focus groups toward oblivion, you are actually trying alert a wide audience - in effect, share with many others - the great assets traditionally found in the world's greatest wines. If you were trully an elitist, you'd simply keep quiet, promote the crowd-pleasers, and drink the really profound stuff with your friends - for significantly less money, as they would remain obscure. Some regions, which do not easily produce wines in this international style, remain relatively so. The Loire, Beaujolais, the Jura, the list could go on. Instead, you spotlight these fine producers and regions - and good for you for doing so.

Indeed, should we wish to do so, we could (indeed, some already are) democratize the wine world, by providing balanced wines with great flavors that tell of place, and weather, and many other characteristics of the site and circumstance of the vineyard, for relatively little money. Instead, we let focus groups lead us to adult Kool Ade. But I submit that poeple are already becoming tired of this "international" style. Always led by the high end, and always by the cutting edge markets, other wine styles are finding their way into the vernacular. No such thing (yet!) as a Gruner with oodles of sweet fruit and glycerol.

When it comes (and they always come), the backlash will be fierce.

Sunday, September 23, 2007

A Backlash in the Offing?

I begin this blog (indeed, the activity of blogging altogether) with a question: is there a reaction a-brewing against the prevailing winemaking wisdom which emphasizes power, concentration, ripeness and, sadly, high levels of alcohol?

The answer seems to be, at the moment, "Maybe."

Restaurateurs and retailers here out west are beginning to notice a few things which may indicate the affirmative. While several possible reasons suggest themselves (fatigue, faddishness amongst folks looking for the new and different in all things, etc.), I think the most important is a growing and savvy sector of the wine-drinking population interested in wines that come from somewhere other than California. Particularly interesting is the connection being made between certain varietals not normally seen in California winemaking (like Albarino and Gruner, to name two from these past summer months) and their traditional homes. This has led, I think quite naturally, to a heightened interest in the rest of the wine world - a good thing in a state that tends naturally to be most interested in its own produce.

Yet this interest in the rest of creation has also led also to a greater interest in wine and wine-making STYLES and FLAVOR PROFILES not normally associated with this state's wines. (I'm sure I've had a "delicate, feminine, nuanced Napa Cab recently, but by gosh I can't remember it.) So if a sector of the California winemaking establishment takes note of this, and creates wines for some of those interested in these new/old wine profiles and styles, so much the better, and so much the richer for all of us.

But, as they say, the jury's still out. We will watch this space with great interest.